The Army Painter: all you need for miniature painting

Flexible Triad Warm Reds: Mixing Guide for Armies

Flexible Triad Warm Reds: Mixing Guide for Armies

By The Army Painter: all you need for miniature painting | Published: 2026-11-04

Category: How-to Guides

Use the six Warm Reds Triad paints in a fixed order to build consistent red armor across a whole army. A step-by-step mixing guide with checkpoints and common mistakes.

Quick answer

Start with the darkest Warm Reds paint as your base, then layer upward through the six-color range, reserving the lightest red for edge highlights. Keep the same sequence on every model so your army reads as one force.

Why a fixed red sequence beats mixing by eye

Warm reds shift quickly under different lighting. A red that looks right on your painting desk can turn orange under a lamp or muddy in a display case. The Flexible Triad Warm Reds removes that guesswork by giving you six prepared steps from deep and dark to bright and light, so you are not inventing a new mix for every squad.

The trade-off is discipline. If you skip a step or swap the order on some models, the army loses its shared identity even though each individual miniature may look fine. Treat the sequence as a recipe, not a suggestion.

Where warm reds work and where they fight you

Warm reds suit armor plates, banners, cloaks, and fantasy creatures that should feel energetic. They also work well for magical effects and vibrant flowers because the lighter end of the range stays saturated rather than turning pink.

They are a poor match when you want a muted, historical red or a cool crimson. In those cases the warmth will pull the scheme toward orange, and no amount of shading will cool it down. Choose a different triad for those projects instead of fighting the paint.

Step-by-step warm red painting sequence

  1. Prime and establish the darkest red: Apply the deepest Warm Reds color over a neutral primer as your base coat. Cover the whole red area evenly and let it cure fully before moving on. Checkpoint: if the base looks patchy, add a second thin coat rather than reaching for a lighter red to cover it.
  2. Block in the mid-dark red: Paint the next color up from the darkest, leaving the deepest red visible in recesses and shadow lines. Work in thin layers and keep the paint out of the deepest creases. Common mistake: flooding the recesses erases the shadow you just established.
  3. Build the mid red on raised areas: Apply the middle Warm Reds color to the broad raised surfaces, stopping short of the edges. This is the color most of the model will read as, so keep it even across every squad member. Checkpoint: compare two finished models side by side under the same light before painting the rest of the unit.
  4. Layer the bright red: Use the second-lightest red on the upper-facing planes and prominent curves. Keep the strokes directional so the layer follows the shape of the armor or cloth. Common mistake: covering the whole surface with the bright red flattens the model and undoes the earlier steps.
  5. Edge highlight with the lightest red: Apply the brightest Warm Reds color only to sharp edges, rivets, and the highest points. A thin brush and a light touch matter more than full coverage here. Checkpoint: step back at arm's length. If the highlight reads as a line rather than a glint, you have used too much.
  6. Record your ratios and repeat: Note which pot you used at each step and any thinner ratio on a recipe card. Use that card for every new unit so reinforcements match the models already finished. Common mistake: trusting memory between painting sessions, which is how armies end up with two slightly different reds.

Product facts

  • Flexible Triad: Warm Reds: Six 18ml Warpaints Fanatic acrylic paints in one Flexible Colour Triad, ranging from deep and dark to bright and light. You get a complete warm red progression in one box, so you can plan a consistent army scheme without buying single pots and hoping they blend.
    Flexible Triad: Warm Reds
    Flexible Triad: Warm Reds

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